The mainland

Ni Hao

Here we are in China proper! We took a ferry up the Pearl River from Hong Kong, biked for 5 days, and here we are in Yangshuo, 65km south of Guilin. It's cold here but not snowy so far. China is pretty cool - not many people speak English but the ones that do are keen to practice. The people have been as friendly as anywhere we have been, with some going well beyond the call of duty in our aid. One girl in the street we asked for directions called the hotel we were trying to find to arrange for someone to come and take us there. The first few nights we were staying in towns that not a lot of foreigners go to so we get a lot of stares, and attract crowds of people in the supermarkets.

The first day of riding was miserable as it was freezing cold, rained on and off all day,and of course we got a puncture as well. This did not bode well. But since then it has been mercifully dry although still finger numbingly cold. The road we followed was busy but after Vietnam it seemed relatively peaceful. Did see 3 crashes in one day however...

The countryside has also been a nice change from the dreary bits of Vietnam and we are yet to see much of the hyperindustrial China that would make for very unpleasant riding. Rather it has been forested hills, rivers, and bamboo sprouting in every direction. Plenty of dilapidated little towns but they only take a few minutes to breeze through on the bike. Unlike the rest of the trip, at the end of the day we have usually found ourselves in a big city, with public transport, malls, fastfood and all the trimmings. A nice change to be able to get food easily. The towns down south were ghostly empty probably because of the New Year holiday but now we are into some more bustle.

The food here is good, on our first night we ordered noodles and they were hand-pulled in front of us. This invlves a lump of dough being rolled flat, twisted and pulled until miaculously noodles spring forth. None of this fancy-pants cutting the Italians rely on. We have also been getting into Chinese dumplings and much much tea.

Yangshuo's scenery is impressive with hundreds of karst cliffs surrounding the town. Our guest house owner is very friendly and has been teaching us some Chinese. Up until this point we have been struggling to make ourselves understood, no one even understands when we say the names of towns. Not sure the lessons will help much though as our pronounciation is shocking.

From here we are off north and into the province of Hunan that has been the recent victim of the worst snow in some decades. Great timing. Hopefully winter comes to an end at some stage in the near future.

Goodbye (in Chinese)

Happy New Year, again

After spending our new years eve in Laos and in bed by 10pm we have come to Hong Kong for the lunar new year as celebrated by the Chinese.

Hong Kong RULES!! That was our initial assessment and we have pretty much stuck to it. It is such a friendly place. One of the touts even told me I was too angry before we readapted to the different way of doing things. It is so easy to be here, with signs at every corner telling you which way to the sights, an attendant at the Peak Tram told us that the more expensive option we asked for was not advised that day because the view would not be worth it, and even when we were told off by the Police for sitting on an illegal wall it was a pleasant experience (compare Vietnam where a whistle was blown and we were yelled at accompanied by vicious pointing).

We got our Chinese visa on day one, which was excessively easy. An agency did it for us, for cheaper than the Embassy charge, in a fifth of the time they take. They seem totally legit to boot. Then we did some major shopping, brake pads that were non-existant after the mud (we bought out the shops supply of 7 sets), new inner tubes as our cheapies are falling appart, new seat, polar fleece, neck gaiter, gloves, running shoes, dry bag to carry new purchases... The locals were also out for some serious shopping so the streets were absolutely packed in every direction you could look, which included up and down thanks to the subterranian malls, and concourses. Great fun just looking at what is around, from dirt cheap street markets to the top-o-the-top like windows full of watches all over $50,000.

Then there are the new years activities. A night parade last night covered children balancing in reverse pyramids - going from one on the ground to 5 across on the top row, lion and dragon dancers, USA cheerleaders, and of course the futuristic "Tourist Ostriches" from France. Tonight is the fireworks, with about $7,000,000 about to go up in smoke.

We have started the Chinese tour of world superlatives with the worlds longest escalator, and the worlds largest permanent light and sound display that sees the buildings lighting up in time to music. Many more to come, not least of course the most populous polulation - there is a city just north of here that is 10 million strong. Won't bother you with the name, you have not herard of it and neither had we. Nor had we heard of the 5 others that top 4 million within about 150km. We are off to one of them by boat on Sunday to avoid the bulk of the hugely populated area where HK meets the mainland, and then we are into China proper. A little nerve wracking after this blissful introduction.

Still, it is cool to be getting into the last country of our alliterative bike tour, with about 3 months to Beijing. Pray for good weather!

D&C

PS no photos as this place does not have the facilities

Mud, rain and cycling

Hi

Hanoi is in a Tet frenzy, cleaning the streets, selling gift baskets, and having more chaotic traffic than usual. We spent a few days cycling around the countryside to escape...

Day 1: The word "muddy" doesn't adequately describe the state of us at the end of day one. Our bikes, our bags, and our persons (ah, the indignity) were hosed down before being allowed into the hotel. Still, we got out of Hanoi without getting lost, maimed or killed, no small feat.

Day 2: After a climb over a mountain pass in dense fog (cold, wet, miserable, etc) we popped out the other side into a stunning valley. Inadvertently ate dog meat for lunch - it's orange and fatty and tastes like, well, dog. We felt a little guilty and uncomfortable, especially as there was a dog sitting by our table staring at us, so we left most of it in our bowls. We spent the night in a fantastic village of stilt houses in the middle of rice paddies surrounded by mountains - very peaceful.

Day 3: Brilliant riding today on a small highway which we often had to ourselves. We followed a river valley, meandered through rice paddies dotted with karst cliffs, and were generally impressed by the scenery. Hit 4000km today! Arrived in a tiny town in the pouring rain, and again out came a hose.

Day 4: Ah, the innocence of us on day one - we didn't know what true mud was! Well, today we were enlightened. At one point the bikes wouldn't even move, so clogged were they with mud. After wrecking our brake pads we arrived at Cuc Phuong National Park where we spent an enjoyable afternoon in the freezing cold looking around the Monkey Rescue Centre.

Day 5: Another sodden ride, another hosing down. We stayed the night in Ninh Binh and convinced ourselves to get the bus back up Highway 1 to Hanoi. Although this proved to be no quieter or any less dangerous, we were at least warm and dry and not hosed down on arrival.

We're leaving here tomorrow (Tues) to fly to Hong Kong. In the meantime we're cleaning bikes (all that hosing and they're still not clean), and cramming in as much of Hanoi as possible. Yesterday we had the very weird experience of going to see Ho Chi Minh's body. This definitely rates at one of our top Vietnamese experiences. First we were ordered to arrange ourselves into two lines of two abreast, thanks. Our bag was searched and X-rayed, then we went through metal detectors. We were ushered through a huge complex by whistle-wielding guards (and they aren't afraid to use them!) and finally found ourselves at the doorway to the mausoleum itself. I (Claud) was pulled out of line and my bag searched again (maybe I have a shifty face??) before finally being allowed in. The interior was dim, the lights were red, and Uncle Ho was flanked by four guards. The man himself was pale and waxy, and the only noise inside was the shuffling feet of hundreds of tourists. Very bizarre, we are already looking forward to Mao.

Love C&D